I can’t possibly count how many times I’ve visited Yerushalayim; but whenever I go, surprises await me. Several weeks ago, within the space of an hour, I had several unexpected experiences.
Strolling down Jaffa Road on a hot day during summer vacation, tourists were milling about, and performers entertained passersby. When I reached Zion Square, I noticed something odd: four women down on their knees cleaning a manhole cover. They had come equipped with brooms, rags, and buckets of water. The women looked ordinary enough, but it was an undeniable scene. At least they were all wearing rubber work gloves.
As I watched with skepticism, I noticed that people around me were photographing them. I asked a girl standing near me what we were all looking at. She gave me an answer that was obviously meant to clarify everything, though it was completely meaningless to me. Curious, I immediately checked my phone.
I learned I was watching “Vacuum Service” – a public outdoor art performance at the Manofim Contemporary Art Festival. A “maintenance crew” in matching utilitarian uniforms uses choreography in public spaces to highlight the invisible labor of street cleaning. Performers scrub two cast-iron manhole covers: one in Zion Square in West Jerusalem and another near the New Gate in East Jerusalem.
Millions of people walk over these manholes without ever noticing them, let alone considering the effort required to keep the city clean. The performance aims to stop people in their tracks, forcing them to notice the “hidden art beneath their feet,” appreciate municipal labor, and reflect on the connection between Eastern and Western Jerusalem.
I have to admit, I’ve walked past that manhole hundreds of times without noticing it, and I certainly never thought about what went into cleaning it. In my case, the performers achieved their goal – even if, at first, I just thought it was a very strange group scrubbing the street.
As I headed back up the street, another surprise awaited me. A woman approached and offered me a flower.
“What’s this for?” I asked.
“It’s a flower for you – and an opportunity to talk,” she replied.
She explained that she was a volunteer for “Let’s Talk Democracy,” a grassroots initiative facilitating open dialogue on the street. The judicial reform controversy has caused much friction in Israeli society, and her organization believes people need to talk, listen, and disagree respectfully.
In the past, to encourage people to speak to one another, one of the founders took to the streets holding a sign that read:
Are you voting for Likud?
Not me.
Let’s talk.
The first three minutes are yours.
The organization now sets up booths across the country on Fridays, distributing flowers and inviting passersby to have honest conversations about the state of affairs. People are encouraged to air all of their grievances. The volunteers find that through conversation, they are able to break down barriers and see that even people with major disagreements have much in common.
I spoke with the woman for quite a while. She was sweet and sincere, but we disagreed strongly on almost everything. I wasn’t bashful about my opinions, and after a short while, I think she realized she wasn’t going to change my mind. She offered me the flower once more, wished me well, and we each continued on our way.
I went home wondering what surprises I might encounter the next day.
Suzie Steinberg, (nee Schapiro), CSW, is a native of Kew Gardens Hills and resident of Ramat Beit Shemesh who publishes articles regularly in various newspapers and magazines about life in general, and about life in Israel in particular. Her recently published children’s book titled Hashem is Always With Me can be purchased in local Judaica stores as well as online. Suzie can be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and would love to hear from you.
