If you’re intent on preserving your youthful face, you’ve probably heard of retinol. This ingredient has been credited for targeting wrinkles and other skin imperfections. Retinol is actually a derivative of Vitamin A, which helps renew skin cells, thus providing anti-aging benefits.
Retinoids, which belong to the same family as retinol, were first introduced in the 1970s as a treatment for acne, psoriasis, wrinkles, other signs of aging, and some cancers. Tretinoin, topical Retin-A, was first introduced to the marketplace and used to treat acne. It was later found to promote cell turnover and help fade pigmentation spots.
Retinol and retinoids, which have been around for a few decades, are promoted for achieving anti-aging benefits. Although they are both derivatives of vitamin A, they differ in intensities. As a matter of fact, retinol, is basically a weaker form, and can be found over the counter. On the other hand, Retinoids need a doctor’s prescription, and are available in higher concentrations. It usually takes about 12 weeks before seeing results from retinols, since they have a lower potency. In addition, they are often mixed with moisturizers for a more gentle effect on the skin.
The active ingredient in retinol and retinoids is retinoic acid, which is responsible for the cell turnover. Retinols undergo many changes to their formulation in order to become retinoic acid. However, retinoids get converted to retinoic acid, achieving speedier results and higher potency. Basically, the acid works by going through the cell membrane and binding to the receptors of the nucleus, where it acts like a gene to promote cell growth. Retinoic also blocks collagenase, which is an enzyme that breaks down collagen. Because collagen production declines with age, its preservation is critical. More collagen equals plumper skin with healthier elasticity and fewer wrinkles.
There are definitely some risks and potential side effects of Retinoids and Retinol. Retinoic acid can cause skin irritation, redness, burning, and peeling. It is not recommended to anyone who has rosacea or very sensitive skin, as it will further aggravate the condition. The higher the concentration of the product, the more negative the side effects. After a while, the skin may build better tolerance to the product. When you first begin, you may experience redness and irritation due to higher cell turnover. Therefore, it’s highly recommended to begin with an over-the-counter formula of 0.25% and use the product every third night, until your skin builds up tolerance. If your skin isn’t very sensitive, you can opt for a higher concentration. You can also apply the retinol sandwiched between moisturizer applications, which won’t interfere with absorption into the skin.
Its best to apply the retinols at night to freshly-washed skin, since you won’t be exposed to the sun. Sunlight can deactivate retinoic acid while also making it more prone to irritation, since the newly-surfaced skin is thin and delicate. Therefore, daily sunscreen is a must with retinols. Be aware that retinols or retinoids should not be used by pregnant women or those of child-bearing age, as it has been linked to birth defects.
Although skincare is a science, it is certainly not a one size fits all. Therefore, retinols may be beneficial to some while never an option for all.
Risselle Naimark is a Professional Freelance Makeup Artist and Skincare Consultant. She carries an extensive line of personalized skincare, cosmetics, and anti-aging products. Risselle is also available for weddings, Bar Mitzvahs, makeup lessons, and all of your beauty needs. She can be reached at 718 263-5517.
